When it comes to make-up, it’s commonly considered a mistake to go big on both lips and eyes. But for Emma Stone’s February Vogue cover, the opposite proved to be true.
“As an artist, I’m led by colour. So when I first saw the Louis Vuitton jacket I was immediately thinking: ‘who is the woman? She’s definitely no wall flower!’ In my mind she’s strong, stylish, wicked-smart and most likely a little eccentric,” Stone’s make-up artist, Rachel Goodwin (@rachelgoodwinmakeup), told us. “I began with just the pale blue shadow on the eyes, but when we all looked on the monitor there was something missing. A red lip? We all agreed, ‘yes!’, that lip was the missing puzzle piece that brought the look together. I’m always searching for duality in my make-up looks: that ever-elusive balance of strength and softness. Finding that is the difference between an iconic image and one that’s just noise.”
Goodwin worked alongside hairstylist Mara Roszak, fashion director Venetia Scott and photographer Craig McDean on the cover, which celebrates the Fashion, Film and Feminism issue. However the inside shoot, which is part of the magazine’s Hollywood portfolio, called for a very different look.
“These were two different women entirely. Emma and I both love to tell stories with our work, so often the make-up I create for her will be inspired by some character we make up on the spot. It often leads to great beauty moments as well as lots of laughs,” she told us. “The moodiness and cinematic quality of the inside photos made it easy to create a character for Emma to play. We came up with this narrative of a woman who had made some questionable decisions in her life, leading her to a pretty lonely place. Maybe she’s dressed up waiting for someone she knows is never coming back. Maybe she’s furiously plotting her revenge. We laughingly called it ‘mommy drinks’.”
Goodwin has been working with Stone for 12 years, and was the talent behind the creative and colourful red-carpet looks worn by the actor throughout the 2017 awards season in which she was nominated, and took home the Academy Award, for her role in La La Land.
“When I think about it, Emma allowed me to experiment with colour pretty much from the beginning – which is pretty rare. I was the first person who was able to convince her to wear a red lip to an event. She was about 18 at the time and it was this gorgeous Chanel red. I remember thinking it was a huge victory!” she said. “Colour is intimidating only because we’ve been taught not to trust our instincts around it. As kids, we knew which colours we loved the moment we saw them. Sadly, conditioning makes us question those instincts as adults. I suggest being more childlike in your approach to colour and make-up in general. If you are drawn to a particular colour then try it on. Why not? Who’s that voice telling you not to?”
Of course the 2019 awards season will be another busy one for Goodwin, with Stone already having picked up nominations for the SAG Awards, Critics’ Choice Awards and BAFTAs for her role in The Favourite, ahead of the Academy Award nominations later this month. She was, of course, the make-up artist behind Stone’s gorgeously glowy, peach-toned beauty look at Sunday’s Golden Globes.
“Emma is wonderful to work with. First of all because she’s hilarious, humble, and loyal to her core. Secondly because she is an artist herself, who completely understands and respects the creative process of the people around her at all times,” Goodwin says. “She brings out the best in everyone; she never takes herself too seriously. Being her make-up artist for this many years has been one of the greatest joys of my career.”